Day 20 – to El Burgo Ranero

• Distance – 17.59km (435.58km total)
• Walking time – 3 hours 50 minutes (4 hours 15 minutes including breaks)

The friendly bakery we liked on our two previous visits to Sahagún had apparently changed ownership and didn’t look so inviting. However once again the Camino provided as the breakfast in our hostal was surprisingly good. Today was another short day so we set off at 8am and made good progress to Bercianos del Real Camino.

Approaching the village we were excited to find that the 17th century Ermita de Nostra Señora de Perales was open so we went inside. It is a simple chapel containing a statue of the Virgin of Perales, the patron saint of Bercianos del Real Camino.

We stopped for a drink in Bercianos, put our AirPods in and walked along a tree-lined path running parallel to the road to El Burgo Ranero. Unfortunately a number of cyclists had selfishly decided that they too would use the path rather than the traffic-free road. Wearing our AirPods we could not always hear their approach! The plane trees planted to provide shade for pilgrims definitely seem to have grown in the five years since we were last here.

The welcome at La Costa del Adobe was very friendly and we relaxed with a cold drink until our (very comfortable) room was ready. After a quick shower we ate lunch in the garden area (Angus burger for Kenny, vegetarian burger for Mandy, served in brioche buns with homemade chips). The bar was full of locals in their “Sunday best” and we later learned that they’d been to church for Pentecost.

Unfortunately the church was locked when we went to visit and as there seemed to be a storm approaching we hurried back to our room for the rest of the afternoon.

The storm never arrived so before dinner we ventured out to explore further (chatting to Hong in her albergue’s garden), but unfortunately the church was still locked. The chick peas with Sahagún leeks that we were really looking forward to were finished but patatas bravas and roasted vegetables (with a couple of glasses of sangria) were an acceptable alternative. As well as seeing Hong again, we also caught up with two of the Taiwanese pilgrims we met on our first day in Auberge Borda.

For those who haven’t experienced the Camino it is hard to convey how incredible an experience it is. Moments like this, meeting up once again with members of our Camino family, are very special.

Quick health update. Ken still has his (heavy) cold but he walked strongly and cheerfully throughout the day.