Day 36 – to Santiago de Compostela

• Distance – 18.1km (800.67km total)
• Walking time – 3 hours 40 minutes (4 hours including breaks)

It was not fully light when we left at 6.30am, but already there was a steady stream of pilgrims ahead of us on the gloomy forest path. After skirting the airport we stopped for breakfast in San Paio, used its sello and got our required second one in the nearby chapel of Santa Lucia. It was misty for most of the way so we didn’t get the iconic view of the cathedral from Monte de Gozo.

In fact a huge music festival was being set up so our view of Santiago would in any case have been blocked by the stage and a ferris wheel; worse still large areas were fenced off which added an extra kilometre to our walk back to the Camino. Nevertheless we arrived at the cathedral at 10.30am and got our compostelas from the pilgrims’ office within minutes of arriving there. The new QR code system worked like a dream.

We dropped our bags off at our accommodation (Casa Douro) and returned to the cathedral in plenty of time for noon Mass. Most of the seats were already taken so we sat apart and waited, deep in our own thoughts. The service was very moving and made extra special because the botefumeiro was swung.

Back outside we saw Ludger and his friends arrive and it was hugs all around. We had an excellent nostalgic lunch at Mama Peixe and returned to the cathedral where we visited the tomb of Saint James.

Our timing was perfect as today was the first day that hugging his statue was allowed since the COVID pandemic; but sadly not photos. We had a couple of hours relaxing in our accommodation before heading back to the cathedral hoping in vain to see more of our “Camino family” arriving for Mass. A day of mixed emotions was finished off with a lovely evening in a bar drinking the local version of sangria; Mandy was happy to finally get some Padron peppers.

Ken’s thoughts – so, despite my initial worries about being able to cope with the rigours of an 800km Camino, I revelled in the experience. There were a couple of hiccoughs along the way when my lower back played up – the descent into Roncesvalles and then a cold, damp miserable day walking to Logroño. The remainder of the time I felt good and occasionally sang this out loud, much to Mandy’s delight. We met many amazing people, especially our Camino “family” from Auberge Borda, enjoyed stunning scenery, ate delicious food and drank very acceptable wine. So, just in case there are any lingering doubts – Did I enjoy it? Hell yes!